August 17,
2004 - Naperville location.
Atmosphere is slightly noisy and boisterous as the
dining room is a bit crowded. Several tables overlook the kitchen through
the large glass wall between the kitchen and dining room. The room is light
and airy thanks to high ceilings and large windows - even on the opposite
side of the room. The cosmopolitan crowded feeling is exacerbated slightly
by the extra foot traffic due to their serving method using runners rather
than the wait-persons.
Atmosphere - 3.5/5 (Seated in a booth - probably lower if seated on the
crowded floor).
Food - The philosophy is to do a few things well and
they succeed with the entrees. Menu is simple but sufficient with creative
steak and seafood selections complemented by nice selection of appetizers
and salads. Entrees are prepared with care and served with generous portions
with accompaniments included, making for a good value relative to other
restaurants where everything is ala carte. Steaks come with original mashed
potatoes which is a nice departure from garlic mashed that are so common and
so overdone elsewhere, and creamed spinach is prepared naturally and not
overdone or drenched in foreign creamy sauce. Beyond the entrees, the
starter and desert courses lacked refinement and revealed shortcuts - the
raspberry dressing was a dopey thick yogurt style rather than a vinagret and
the creme brulee' was more vanilla pudding with glaze topping. Staff were
gracious and attentive to rectify disappointments but avoidance is a better
strategy.
Food - 3.75/5
Wine - Winelist is fundamentally sound yet basic,
predominantly American from California with a couple of selections from
Australia, France and
US Northwest. The selection is limited but adequate for general public
diners but the oenephile will be disappointed except that they have a
liberal BYOB policy with a $10 corkage fee (worthy of .5 rating point in of
itself!*). That was the saving grace for our dining experience since we were
celebrating a special event with a special bottle (see wine journal
review.)
They thoughtfully offer several selections by the glass and a couple half
bottles including sparklers and some dessert wines. There is a small minimal
selection of 'premium' wines but the prices are expensive - Silver Oak $200
and Duckhorn cab at $150.
Wine - 3.5/5
* The Naperville City Council is trying to eliminate
BYOB for such restaurants in which case Catch 35 is minimalist at best in
its wine and dine experience - we'll go to Glen Ellyn or Oak Brook!)
Service was personable and minimally adequate, although
junior in experience - a bit amateurish for what they are striving to
achieve - perhaps a sign of a new venue - experience will come - at diner's
expense. Their wine service is amateurish and unsophisticated - less so than
than limited winelist. The serving style uses runners to bring your food
disconnecting the ordering and expectation setting from the serving
experience.
Service - 2.75/5
Overall - 13.5/20 |